The Best Part of Our Trip

I was recently listening to a TED talk from an explorer.  He had been asked why he does what he does when absolutely every video, photo, and written account can be accessed from a computer now.  Is there really any need to explore?  He responded that while trekking in Antarctica on foot, the scenery changes every day.  Ice melts, ice forms, landscapes shift.  He said his experience was unique to anyone else's who would take the exact same path.  Therefore, there are no photos or videos or tales that capture the journey, only those that capture each journey.  

These are the photos that capture what made our journey special.  These are only some of the people we met who recommended adventures, who were part of our experiences, and have enriched our life.  Thank you to everyone.

David, my guardian angel during the horse parade in Jocotepec.

Gil, the man crazy enough to give a stranger a horse.

Oscar, the man who kept us full with food and drinks during the Pats road to the Super Bowl.

Allen, fantastic sushi chef, and hotel recommend-er.

The roadside chicken people - WE LOVE YOU!!

My kids, now Hip Hop crew, at the orphanage.

Selfies with my boys!

More selfies!

They love selfies! LOL!!

Madre Blanca.  One of the many nuns and staff taking wonderful care of the children.  She rules with a tender, iron fist.  That must be why we got along so well ;-)

My Spanish class, including instructor Lourdes, and my coffee mate Marie.  

My ESL class.  I hope I didn't teach them to speak English with a Maine accent; that would be bad!

Cappy and his staff at Ole Ola.  A tapas restaurant. Of course, we ate the entire menu at each visit.

Ole, Ola!!

Alex, the best boat captain.

Giro, the tireless, sweetest jack of all hotel trades ever.

Izmat, Paola, Efra and the staff at Gossips.  My weekly hangout, my final night, the best food, and great conversations.

We will see you again!

My love.

I saved the best for last, Juan.  We met him hours after we arrived in Mexico, and instantly became friends.
A wonderful person with a generous heart.


“What is that feeling when you're driving away from people and they recede on the plain till you see their specks dispersing? - it's the too-huge world vaulting us, and it's good-bye. But we lean forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies.” 
― Jack Kerouac, On the Road

Casitas Maraika

I don’t often reference past blog posts, but in this case it is necessary.  If you read Travelers not Tourists (and I strongly suggest you do), you read my recommendation to venture further than Cancun and Puerto Vallarta.  I have a slight correction to this…  If you are in need of a spectacular beach vacation, venture just a couple of kilometers south of PV to Boca de Tomatlan.  This is where we had a once in a lifetime weekend.

Earlier in the month I was eating sushi and telling the chef, Allen, that I wanted to have my last weekend at the beach and therefore we were headed to PV.  He then said, “Oh no.  I’m going to tell you where to go.”  He directed me to Casitas Maraika and after looking at the listings, I instantly booked it. Casitas Maraika Listing

We were told it was 4 hours, and Jon worked til 4, so we hoped to arrive at 8ish.  The windy mountain roads of Mexico offer spectacular views, but do nothing to help an ETA.  We didn’t pull into to this tiny waterfront town until after 10:00.  We knew we had to get a water taxi to the resort, and being northerners we thought this would be easy.  Yeah, no. 

Not a word of English in the convenience store or the tiny clothing store that we were lucky to find open for us at this hour.  But enough Spanish to express our dilemma:  we didn’t bring a boat, and we needed a ride.  The lovely senora yelled up to the apartment over her store to Javier a water taxi owner, who was up, but insisted he needed to call the hotel before taking us over there.  I thought this was silly.  We had a reservation, and I know they’re fully booked.  Just bring us there.  If there are any problems, I’m happy to pay a fee to be brought back to the mainland. He seemed to hesitate and then concede, and then told us to take off our jeans and shoes and put on shorts.  Sure, just to get in and out of the water taxi – right?

A little unnerving, but beautiful moonlit 5 minute boat ride took us off shore of our hotel.  He flashed his light towards shore, and whistled until someone acknowledged.  I just thought he was covering his bases before bringing his boat ashore for us to gingerly jump off.  Ummm no.  

They use the crashing waves OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN to time handing off your luggage to a hotel employee who is in the water and carrying your bags to shore.  They also use the waves to tell you when to get out of the boat.  As the waves are crashing, and there is no light, and Jon is hurling bags to a man, I am being yelled at in Spanish.  My language skills are not accustomed to these conditions.  And then I hear in English – “JUMP NOW, TINA!!!”  My eyes bulge, as I say, “Ahoritta?? (right now??)” “SI!!!!!” I throw myself over the side of the boat and jump in and I am helped to the shore as Jon immediately jumps in.  He’s up to his knees which means I’m up to my waist.  We’re officially at the beach.

It was at this moment, the service started and it didn’t stop.  Our bags were brought to our private casita, complete with private beach and hammocks, and chairs, and suspended bed, and driftwood sink, and conk shell showerhead.  Mango margaritas delivered moments later and candles lit to set the mood.  Gorgeous!

We woke up to breakfast being delivered to our private dining area, and another warm welcome from the staff.  We walked the beach and decided to spend some time secluded from the common area, restaurant, and shared beach.  

When we finally made our way we found lounge chairs, umbrellas, food and beverage services that didn’t stop, a yoga platform overlooking the ocean, a DJ spinning a beachside mix – paradise.  We swam, sunbathed, snorkeled, ate and drank.  Our beach music.

Each night the staff made a bonfire for us on our private beach and delivered our food and drinks to us.  The manager visited and shared a beer around the fire and talked about his life and adventures.  He mentioned to me that there are other spots accessible only by boat, and so I surprised Jon by booking a private boat to take us.

With our guide Alex we visited a waterfall, saw a whale, saw seals, ate lobster on the beach, and Jon got to snorkel in secluded areas.  While snorkeling, Jon entered a cave filled with thousands of bats.  He said it was awesome.  I’ll take his word for it. 

My final weekend in Mexico was extraordinary. I couldn’t be happier that I struck up a conversation in a sushi restaurant, and it threw me from a boat and onto a shore. 

 We wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment.

Hilaire Belloc

Travelers not Tourists

When we decided that our next trip would be to Mexico, safety was our first concern.  And why wouldn’t it be? The evening news, online feeds, Trip Advisor, and the State Dept. website all warn American citizens about the dangers around every corner here in MX. 

It was just the other day that the Mayor of Mexico City said he didn’t feel his children were safe here, and that the entire police department turned their backs on him while he spoke at a public event.  Police in one of the largest cities in Mexico are being targeted for killings after controversial rulings of cops killing citizens and being acquitted suggesting corruption in the cities system of law and order.  Who would visit a place where cops are killing people, people are killing cops, the government officials are afraid for their children, and the police and the government are accused of either being in cahoots or in direct conflict? This sounds like treacherous ground on which to tread. 

**Oh, after a bit of fact checking, I discovered these stories are not from Mexico City, but from New York City.  I will now check to see if tourism rates to NYC have fallen or if there are any warnings on the above mentioned feeds that travel to New York City and the surrounding areas is not recommended…

I am not saying that Mexico does not have its share of corruption or downright violent crime.  But once you come here, it boggles the mind how this is the only impression Americans have of this country.  Horrible things have been happening in the states and other 1^st world countries.  Ferguson in Missouri, unrest in NYC, terrorist attacks are far too common in France and other European nations.  But we don’t see those incidents as characteristic of the entire country or a fair representation of their people.  Why is it that we capture all of Mexico through this lens?

Let’s put some shoes on other feet, and change our perspective a little.  A Greek citizen calls his American friend to talk about a planned vacation.  He plans on visiting the Grand Canyon.  Well, planned.  He’s informing his friend that he’s cancelling the trip since he read about everything going on in Ferguson.  The American friend laughs and tells him the Grand Canyon is nowhere near Ferguson.  You’re fine.  And for that matter if you felt like visiting Missouri, you’d still be fine.  Go see the arch if you feel like it.  That issue is confined to the people involved in it. 

The United States has conflict and violent crime and really bad areas you shouldn't visit and quite frankly wouldn't visit unless you had a very specific reason.  Mexico is no different.  Actually, there aren't many countries or major cities that don’t fit that description.  And while I’m ranting about narrow perspectives, I find that most people have an antiquated view of what Mexico looks and feels like.  We imagine indigenous peoples with packs on their backs, barren desert land, and adobe sheds for shelter.  We imagine this because of the imagery we have seen in our sixth grade text books or old encyclopedias.  I equate this to looking at a Norman Rockwell painting and thinking all New Englanders still get around using a horse drawn carriages.  You’re looking at beautiful Folkloric pictures, and thinking that is still the way of life here.  It’s narrow.  

Of course, there are things that you will see “only in New England”, but we regard them as unique, special, and tradition.  We don’t consider them a mark of our 3^rd world status, desire to keep our heads in the sand, or lack of intelligence and progress.  They have charm and nostalgia.  It’s the same here.

Time for Tina to go to work for the National Board of Tourism here in Mexico.  This country and its people are beautiful and fun and interesting and steeped in tradition while moving forward with a work ethic a Fortune 500 CEO would envy.

I laugh as I observe “only in Mexico” things such as two week long street fairs.  Fireworks set off during the day to call people to church on holy days and Sundays.  A man walking through town with a wheelbarrow full of fish ready to cut your fillets as you like them and weigh out what you need for dinner. 

And then I have my breath taken away by the beauty in the countryside and in the major cities.  As we drive from place to place we are taken through mountains and into valleys and through national parks that rival the hills of Tuscany in their splendor.  Large ranches with horses and cows and sheep to our right and left.  We arrive in charming college towns like Guanajato that take us back to Quebec City, while bringing us into their own spirit with Mariacchi music and families exploring into all hours of the night.

Mazanillo had the weather of Hawaii with the hospitality and warmheartedness that can only be Latin America.  The beaches were beautiful and our hotel was perfect.

Morelia the capital city of Michoacan, said to be the most dangerous place in Mexico where no US citizen should tread; rivaled Milan with its hustle, bustle and beauty.  Centered around the church with artists and dancers and live music, we walked through cafes and watched street performers.  We dined on a 5 star meal overlooking the plaza, and regretted that we did not plan to stay longer.

I could go on and on as I have learned about the health care system, the educational system, the 6 day work week, and many of the other social aspects of this country.  I find a new culinary delight daily whether it is eating food from a street vendor, handmade gelato, dining in a small café with no menu, or at the best restaurants in Mexico’s major cities sipping lip licking tequila.  I resist buying every piece of exquisite jewelry, tapestry, dishware, and clothing I pass.  All made with meticulous detail and artistic flair.  I say I resist buying every piece – I've bought a lot! Because once again, everything here could not even be described as affordable; one cannot figure out how they are even able to make the items, afford a store front, and have a salary it’s so inexpensive.

I don’t know why I feel such a strong impulse to tell you about how wonderful it is here.  It’s my sense of justice, I suppose. These people and their beautiful country deserve a chance to settle into your heart.  Quite honestly they deserve a chance to earn your tourism dollars, and to grow as a major contributor in the world economy.  They’re putting their nose to the grindstone every day with a smile on their face and love in their hearts, ready to welcome everyone into the place they call home. 

So there you have it – it’s time to plan a trip to Mexico. And don’t tell me you’re headed to Cancun or Puerto Vallerta! Yes, those places are gorgeous, but Mexico is not only a resort.  Be sure to explore the countryside, the coast, the mountains.  Talk to the people here, eat their food, listen to their stories.   You will get an earful on where to visit that will have you discovering what truly makes this country and its people so special.  Be a traveler, not a tourist.  And when you get here - tell them Tina sent you.

If you wish to travel far and fast, travel light. 

Take off all your envies, jealousies, unforgiveness, selfishness and fears.

Cesare Pavese

Jocotepec

There is much to see and do in Mexico.  Sometimes it requires a bus trip or rental car or even a flight, and other times you just head a couple of clicks down the carreterra (freeway). 

I do not typically give specific dates in my blogs, but in this case, it is relevant.  It was Saturday, January 10th.  The Pats were playing my old friends the Ravens.  It was a late afternoon game, so we made a plan to explore our neighboring town during the day and find a satellite TV in the afternoon.

Jocotepec is similar to Ajijic that it is a lakeside town with windy roads, shops, and restaurants. I continue to marvel at the beautiful colors and the people here.  Although I will never tire of exploring this countryside wide eyed and enchanted, it did feel like we would spend the afternoon killing time until the big game. 

I could not have been more wrong.

Jon noticed cowboys on horses all heading in the same direction. Being Jon, he insisted we find out where they were going.  We walked until we were surrounded by Mexican cowboys and a few cowgirls of various ages, the police, and a traveling Mariachi band.  Sticking out like sore thumbs, a nice man who spoke English told us that there had already been a long ride, and now they were all going to head a little ways up the road to a ranch and drink and eat and hang out and that we should come along.  Well, alrighty then! 

It was at this point, that he asked me if I wanted to ride the horse.  He assured me that it is a good horse and I have nothing to be afraid of.  I was delighted to take him for a short spin around the area - like a kid at the fairgrounds.  (I have ridden a horse, horses do not scare me, and this one was great.) 
I did my loop, and as I was heading towards Jon, and who we now know as Gill, they were yelling at me to "Get in the parade!! Keep riding!!"  I confirmed that they actually wanted me to get in this parade, and off I went.

This is David.  Throughout the parade I rode my own horse.
This pic was taken at the end. 
David still had to make his way home,
and didn't want to get off his horse.

Almost immediately, my guardian angel David pulled up along one side of me with his friend on my other side and began to adjust my stirrups.  Let me give you the full picture:  I have my jeans all cutie cuffed at the bottom with my barefoot running shoes and my Patriots baseball cap,.  Yah - which one of these is not like the other??  Also, they knew something I didn't.  The parade had not just ended, it had just begun.  I would spend the next two hours riding this horse!








This experience will forever be remembered on my Top Ten List of Lifetime Moments - IT WAS AWESOME.  We road for miles through ranches and on trails.  Over 80 cowboys and a couple of cowgirls.  So once again, I did not blend.  People were taking photos of me, asking how I knew to bring my horse today. Turns out they only do this a couple times a year, and I was there for it!  Throughout the parade, I had no idea where Jon or Gill were, but I knew Gill would eventually need his horse back. 

There were stops along the route for Tequila, which I refused the first couple of times and then David insisted it was part of the experience.  We also stopped so the band could play, and horses could dance.  Not mine, thankfully.  I must take a moment to mention that my sweet boy took such good care of me.  To this day I have no idea what the horse's name is (you'll learn why later), but we called him Amigo during the ride. 

 

Tina, Amigo, Gil, Jon

David spoke enough English and I spoke enough Spanish that we chatted the whole ride as he explained all the places on the route and we talked about his country and my home and how my mind was just completely blown by this experience.

After the ranches, the parade marches into town on the main street with everyone videotaping and photographing.  As we pulled into the main square, David waited with me until Jon and Gill found me.  At the start of the parade route, Jon and Gill had immediately jumped into the pick up of a police truck and rode the whole two hours right behind me. 

And now for the background on Gill that will clear up all the confusion.  Gil had just arrived in Jocotepec the night before.  He spent the evening catching up with his family over one two many libations. His brother informed him in the morning that he had a horse for him and told him where to head.  He really had no idea what was going on.  He was thrilled to have me take the horse, because he was in recovery! He spent the entire time in the back of the pick up asleep.  Lucky break for me.




After the photos and thank you's, Jon and I headed to San Juan Cosala.  This is a small area bordering the lake with hotels and large lakeside restaurants.  We found one that put on the game, and had an evening that lived up to our afternoon.  Margaritas, ceviche, sunset over the lake and mountains, Mexican music, and a nail biting Pats win over the Ravens.

OFFICIAL: Top Ten List of Lifetime Moments - That awesome day in Jocotepec.

Jon gets a test run!

 

 “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure.

There is no end to the adventures we can have

if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru