Jocotepec

There is much to see and do in Mexico.  Sometimes it requires a bus trip or rental car or even a flight, and other times you just head a couple of clicks down the carreterra (freeway). 

I do not typically give specific dates in my blogs, but in this case, it is relevant.  It was Saturday, January 10th.  The Pats were playing my old friends the Ravens.  It was a late afternoon game, so we made a plan to explore our neighboring town during the day and find a satellite TV in the afternoon.

Jocotepec is similar to Ajijic that it is a lakeside town with windy roads, shops, and restaurants. I continue to marvel at the beautiful colors and the people here.  Although I will never tire of exploring this countryside wide eyed and enchanted, it did feel like we would spend the afternoon killing time until the big game. 

I could not have been more wrong.

Jon noticed cowboys on horses all heading in the same direction. Being Jon, he insisted we find out where they were going.  We walked until we were surrounded by Mexican cowboys and a few cowgirls of various ages, the police, and a traveling Mariachi band.  Sticking out like sore thumbs, a nice man who spoke English told us that there had already been a long ride, and now they were all going to head a little ways up the road to a ranch and drink and eat and hang out and that we should come along.  Well, alrighty then! 

It was at this point, that he asked me if I wanted to ride the horse.  He assured me that it is a good horse and I have nothing to be afraid of.  I was delighted to take him for a short spin around the area - like a kid at the fairgrounds.  (I have ridden a horse, horses do not scare me, and this one was great.) 
I did my loop, and as I was heading towards Jon, and who we now know as Gill, they were yelling at me to "Get in the parade!! Keep riding!!"  I confirmed that they actually wanted me to get in this parade, and off I went.

This is David.  Throughout the parade I rode my own horse.
This pic was taken at the end. 
David still had to make his way home,
and didn't want to get off his horse.

Almost immediately, my guardian angel David pulled up along one side of me with his friend on my other side and began to adjust my stirrups.  Let me give you the full picture:  I have my jeans all cutie cuffed at the bottom with my barefoot running shoes and my Patriots baseball cap,.  Yah - which one of these is not like the other??  Also, they knew something I didn't.  The parade had not just ended, it had just begun.  I would spend the next two hours riding this horse!








This experience will forever be remembered on my Top Ten List of Lifetime Moments - IT WAS AWESOME.  We road for miles through ranches and on trails.  Over 80 cowboys and a couple of cowgirls.  So once again, I did not blend.  People were taking photos of me, asking how I knew to bring my horse today. Turns out they only do this a couple times a year, and I was there for it!  Throughout the parade, I had no idea where Jon or Gill were, but I knew Gill would eventually need his horse back. 

There were stops along the route for Tequila, which I refused the first couple of times and then David insisted it was part of the experience.  We also stopped so the band could play, and horses could dance.  Not mine, thankfully.  I must take a moment to mention that my sweet boy took such good care of me.  To this day I have no idea what the horse's name is (you'll learn why later), but we called him Amigo during the ride. 

 

Tina, Amigo, Gil, Jon

David spoke enough English and I spoke enough Spanish that we chatted the whole ride as he explained all the places on the route and we talked about his country and my home and how my mind was just completely blown by this experience.

After the ranches, the parade marches into town on the main street with everyone videotaping and photographing.  As we pulled into the main square, David waited with me until Jon and Gill found me.  At the start of the parade route, Jon and Gill had immediately jumped into the pick up of a police truck and rode the whole two hours right behind me. 

And now for the background on Gill that will clear up all the confusion.  Gil had just arrived in Jocotepec the night before.  He spent the evening catching up with his family over one two many libations. His brother informed him in the morning that he had a horse for him and told him where to head.  He really had no idea what was going on.  He was thrilled to have me take the horse, because he was in recovery! He spent the entire time in the back of the pick up asleep.  Lucky break for me.




After the photos and thank you's, Jon and I headed to San Juan Cosala.  This is a small area bordering the lake with hotels and large lakeside restaurants.  We found one that put on the game, and had an evening that lived up to our afternoon.  Margaritas, ceviche, sunset over the lake and mountains, Mexican music, and a nail biting Pats win over the Ravens.

OFFICIAL: Top Ten List of Lifetime Moments - That awesome day in Jocotepec.

Jon gets a test run!

 

 “We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure.

There is no end to the adventures we can have

if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharial Nehru

 

Tlaquepaque

Yes, it certainly looks like a mouthful! It's actually easy and fun to say: lahkee pahkee. 
Is it:
1) a Mayan Indian specialty dish
2) a microbrewery
3) a local line dance similar to the electric slide

NONE OF THE ABOVE (you saw that coming...)

Guadalajara is divided into burrows much like New York City.  Tlaquepaque is one of these burrows.  We took the comfy bus for the hour drive into the old bus station in Guadalajara.  From there, a taxi to the center of Tlaquepaque.  I had read that this area was the arts district, and we were not disappointed.

Per our usual, we ventured with an overnight bag and no reservations.  We were told that this was the high season so good luck finding a place to stay.  Couple this with the fact that most hotels and bed and breakfasts have absolutely no curb appeal, and I was worried and trepidatious about what our accommodations would be for the evening.  I learned they spare the curb appeal and save all of the wow factor for after you enter and experience the beautiful, colorful open courtyards.  I also forgot that my husband hides a horseshoe somewhere, because his luck never runs out.

I mentioned in an earlier post that discussing the price of goods and services would be a recurring theme in this blog, and no where is that more apparent than Tlaquepaque.  We shopped and shopped and shopped.  You would think that it was Material Girl Tina racking up the purchases.  You would be wrong.  Jon bought a leather jacket, new cowboy boots, and a sweater.  So we don't need to worry about Jon shopping for another 4 score and seven years. I bought new leather shoes, a hat (cuz I always need a new hat), and for the two of us a new overnight bag.  The leather goods are hand made and soft and exquisite and CHEAP! What we spent for all of that wouldn't have afforded the jacket in the states.

 

Tlaquepaque is the birthplace of mariachi.  We spent the evening in the open courtyards drinking tequila and listening to the music.  We watched as families with multiple generations ate tacos on the street and their children delighted in running around independently with a few pesos for toys and churros as needed.  The core of the Latino culture is family.  I don't think the American concept of a babysitter exists.  If you are having dinner in the town center at 10 pm in order to enjoy the music and the lights and the intoxication of the moment, your children are there with you.  They are playful, engaging, and unafraid; and it is awesome.

The next day we took a double decker bus back to Guadalajara and stayed on it for a tour of the city.  We thought we would spend the day exploring the city center which feels a lot like the hustle and bustle of Manhattan.  We didn't anticipate the physical weight of our purchases, and decided to head home.  Not to worry.  I've already realized a few items I still want, and I have already made plans for one more shopping spree...

 

 

 

 

 

 

“All the pathos and irony of leaving one’s youth behind

is thus implicit in every joyous moment of travel:

one knows that the first joy can never be recovered,

and the wise traveler learns not to repeat successes

but tries new places all the time.” – Paul Fussell

 

POST SCRIPT: As expected, I have become a Tlaquepaque regular with my favorite shops and taxi driver, Oscar.  I picked up stoneware plates, bowls, and mugs as well as new glassware to be enjoyed by guests of our Winter Palace in Maine.  I take the bus in to town, and at the end of my day Oscar arranges to meet me and load everything in the trunk of his taxi and drive me back to Ajijic.  On the drive, he teaches me Mexican Spanish; so I really know how to habla en Mexico! He plays American music on his CD player, and even gave me an Alvin and the Chipmunks Christmas CD in Spanish to give to Bryce.  Have I mentioned that I LOVE this country?!?!

Guanajuato

We spend copious amounts of time where ever we travel, because we want enough time to move about and see varied places.  Some very friendly Gringos from Portland, OR, told us not to miss Guanajuato.  Who are we to disobey?

Take the one hour bus to Guadalajara, and then the 4 hour luxury bus to Guanajuato.  Long trip, but you're traveling extremely comfortably and the drive is very scenic countryside.  We arrived late Friday night to a friendly and helpful Dutch desk clerk, Derrick.  He circled all the places on the map that we needed to see, and since 9:00 pm in Latin America is the early bird special - we headed out the door. We got some dinner and a glimpse of the windy roads and charming courtyards.  We were excited for the day ahead.

Guanajuato is a college town, frequented more so by Mexican tourists than Europeans or Northerners.  Therefore, NOBODY speaks English, which is the whole point - right?!? It reminded us of a Mexican Quebec City.  Small streets with fantastic shops and restaurants. There are boutique hotels and residences with beautiful balconies.  Plazas with fountains and seating areas.  They even have a funicular!  That is a railway cart designed to travel up completely vertical inclines.  We did not take it.  Wait for it...  We hiked the windy, narrow steps all the way to the top to see the Pipila monument.  On our way down, we saw other crazy couples doing the same thing. Huffing and puffing with one pushing the other.  Buena suerte!

We hiked all over that town from one end of it to the other and back again.  We visited all the plazas.  All the monuments.  The University steps.  We did some shopping (fabulous new boots and lots of Dia de los Muertos items - love!). Then we went back to the hotel to freshen up.  The plan? Watch the American Football playoff game, and then hit the town, and party like rock stars all night long.

Part one: accomplished.  We found a restaurant with and indoor/outdoor set up.  Everyone was outdoor, but they had satellite TV and agreed to bring us food and drinks and put on the game!  Result of the game withstanding, it was great.  Then, we hit the streets. I picked up the grilled corn with parmesan and lime I had been craving  from a street vendor.  We walked the plaza in front of the Juarez Theatre to see bands of people following Mariachi performers and chanting, singing, and laughing.  All of it, I could not understand, but it looked like a blast.  Then we realized something: people who party like rock stars, do not hike from dawn til dusk.  They rise at dusk.  Urban hikers on the other hand, eat their street corn and go to bed.


We had a few hours before our bus back Sunday morning to sip coffee slowly, walk the quiet streets, and find El Callejon del Beso.  To read the full legend (I recommend you do, it's heartbreaking) click here: Mexico's Romeo and Juliet.  Two close balconies, two star crossed lovers who were not meant to be, and a tragic ending.  Visitors come to kiss in the alley like Romeo and Juliet.  Our kids know, we never pass up an opportunity for PDA.

“To move, to breathe, to fly, to float,
To gain all while you give,
To roam the roads of lands remote,
To travel is to live.”
― Hans Christian Andersen, The Fairy Tale of My Life: An Autobiography

New Year's Day

Let me tell you a story about a boy and a girl and trip to NYC.  They had known each other 4 months and were headed to NYC for a friend's 30th birthday party. Obviously this story takes place a long time ago in a galaxy far, far, away...  It was a party.  She wore 4 inch heels.  He apparently did not know about the fabulous NYC taxi system, and insisted, "We can walk.  It's only a couple of blocks."  This became the mantra of the night, and by the end of it, he was carrying her.  Yes, literally carrying her through the streets of NYC.  Even when her feet were swollen and blistered, he preferred to carry her than get a taxi. That's dedication - to what I am not sure.  The girl in the story learned two things that night: 1) always pack walking shoes, and 2) if you want a taxi, flag it yourself. He can walk if he feels like it!

Whenever Jon and I travel there is going to be hiking involved.  We have hiked the most advanced trail in Cinque Terre, Italy (while in recovery from a very late evening, I might add).  Yellowstone (fresh as daisies). And too many urban and suburban hikes to mention.  Unless you're writing a blog about Mexico! Then you mention them.  But first, the parade.

                 

                

It started years ago to soften animosities between two neighborhoods in Ajijic.  They would have a fun, outrageous parade with home made floats.  Now many neighborhoods enter their floats to be a part of the zaniness.  It travels a 4 block loop and heads to the malecon (boardwalk on the lake), where there are vendors and open spaces to BBQ, play soccer, walk, socialize, and generally hang out.  The parade is quick and cute and worth the watch if you're here.  We walked the malecon, and watched soccer while munching on homemade potato chips. 

                 

Good times, but I knew what was coming...

Jon had already researched the hike to Las Cruces.  We live in a valley surrounded by mountains.  Think hills to get anywhere.  We had this in Puerto Rico too.  I don't mind it, because it keeps me eating chips and salsa and drinking margaritas.  Apparently, that's not enough for Jon.  He needs completely vertical trails.  Gravely, dusty, slip and fall down a mountain trails.  I was ready for it.  We had water.  I had good shoes and appropriate clothes, and off we went. 

There are two noteworthy points on the trail: Las Cruces and the Chapel.  I made it a little beyond the Chapel, because we are a mile above sea level, I am 5 feet tall, and I was done! Jon trekked on.  He did not make it all the way to Las Cruces.  Instead he found a treacherous ledge for me to stand on in front of a CACTUS (great place to fall), so he could take a pic. 

The views are awesome, but the hike is no joke.  It is slippery.  It is vertical.  It is hugging the mountain.  And if you're up to it, it's worth it. 

“Adventure is a path. Real adventure – self-determined, self-motivated, often risky – forces you to have firsthand encounters with the world. The world the way it is, not the way you imagine it. Your body will collide with the earth and you will bear witness. In this way you will be compelled to grapple with the limitless kindness and bottomless cruelty of humankind – and perhaps realize that you yourself are capable of both. This will change you. Nothing will ever again be black-and-white.” – Mark Jenkins

 

 

 

 

POST SCRIPT:

NOTE: as I sat home and wrote, Jon attempted the hike to the summit. I am happy to report: VICTORY!

He fell, skinned his leg, wounded his hand,

and got a little lost on the way back. 

But he made it!!

The Holidays

We arrived in late December which is dos semanas de fiestas/two weeks of holidays.  Christmas and New Year's Eve are typically private family events in the Latino culture, but keep in mind we are in an ex-pat village. What does this mean? We are surrounded by retired Americans and Canadians here to escape the winter months back home, and their visiting family members.  The local economy must strike while the iron is hot, or perfectly temperate like the weather here!

Restaurants and many shops remain open on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day,  New Year's Eve (of course), and New Year's Day.  Snowbirds enjoy the shopping, eating, and partying provided by the vendors this time of year. 

That brings me to a brief commentary on the population of our town.  Old.  People are old.  All of the Mexicans we meet cannot believe how young we are and that we are here.  I get it.  Your money goes further here on daily living expenses, medical care, and the weather is a constant spring.  The area provides plenty of entertainment and getting to other towns on safe, cheap, public transportation is easy.  Who wouldn't want to retire here? But it has gotten to the point that Jon and my presence here is almost comical.  The Mexicans and the Ex-Pats don't know what to make of us.  We keep telling them, "Why wait until retirement to experience the good life?"


Every other Christmas, Jon and I do not have our children.  Having just the two of us, is not out of the ordinary.  We pigged out on cured meats and cheeses, drank too much wine, watched Christmas movies, grabbed Margaritas on the malecon (boardwalk), and watched the sunset over the lake and mountains from our rooftop patio. 

We did discover a Mexican tradition that we will bring back home with us to our children. On Christmas Eve, children write their notes to Santa and attach them to star balloons filled with helium.  They let them go into the night sky, and Santa knows to grab these special stars as he flies by in his sleigh.  Beautiful.

New Year's Eve...  Let's start with the great part.  We have gotten to know Juan.  He was our server at a breakfast diner on our first morning in Ajijic.  He let us know that he works Sundays at Sunrise Café, but during the week he is at Gossips.  As it turns out Gossips is a local favorite, and Juan has become a good friend.  I made NY's Eve reservations and we ate like Kings.  Oysters Rockefeller, Duck, Gourmet Mac and Cheese, and fresh margaritas.  The owner advised us to head over to El Bar Co for live music that will go all night long, and to be amongst the younger crowd.  We should have known something was amiss when Juan preferred to clean the restaurant rather than join us at El Bar Co.

 If any of you have seen my New Year's Eve photos on Facebook, I have to come clean - that was a Facebook Fake.  We took our fun selfies because we got dressed up and needed to immortalize the moment.  But if we were truly taking accurate photos, they would have captured the awkward looks on our faces as we assessed the crowd at El Bar Co.  A mix of ages and life stages that can only be characterized as inappropriate.  There is no way to politely describe men in the retirement portion of their life hitting on women in their 20's.  Or women of a certain age wearing outfits that really shouldn't be worn by women of any age.  Ay Dios Mio! We drank half our drinks and left hysterically laughing before the live music even began.

As we walked home, our knight in shining armor, Juan pulled up in his car and asked if we needed a ride.  We laughed about the twilight zone-esque dynamic, and made arrangements to hang out with Juan and his girlfriend certain that we will have a much better time.

 

“The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality,

and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are.” – Samuel Johnson  

Here We Go Again!

To say that Jon and I have wanderlust is an understatement.  We are never happier than when we are exploring someplace new, and the more exotic the better.  So many advice columns advise you of things to discuss with your partner before you make a go of it, and not one ever said, "Ask if they enjoy sacrificing just about anything in order to satiate your desire for travel." Don't get me wrong, Jon and I don't have to sacrifice much.  We lead a full life with friends, family, and creature comforts.  But our souls' desire is to trek all over this planet of ours, and we prioritize it above all else. 

From December 20th - February 10th and 22nd respectively for myself and Jon, we will be calling a beautiful property in Ajijic, Mexico, home. To see the listing for our home, click here: Ajijic Rental Home.  The property is designed hacienda style which means all rooms have their own entrances off of the outdoor area.  Therefore, you MUST go outside in order to get to the kitchen, the office, the living room, etc.  It's fabulous.  The pictures on the listing are accurate, but you have to see it to believe it.  And let me say, YOU ARE ALL INVITED TO SEE IT! We have ample space, and you'll have tons of privacy in your room.  Book your ticket and come for a visit.


Every home in Mexico has help.  It is a cultural obligation to the economy.  We have Josefina who cleans, Jorge who landscapes (which is a massive undertaking), and a pool company of rotating staff who maintain the pool.  They are all wonderful.  They speak absolutely no English, which makes my beginner Spanish very obvious; but forces me to work on it.

We do not have a car here in Ajijic.  There is a public bus system much like the NYC subway that gets you everywhere you want to go.  In every way it is exactly like the subway.  It comes regularly every 5 - 10 minutes.  It's packed with people going to and from work, recreational pursuits, and errands. 

There are larger buses that get you into Guadalajara, and from there more buses to take you all over Mexico.  The local town buses are small and more often than not, you end up standing, but these are short trips. The excursion buses are awesome! They recline almost fully, with foot rests, wifi, and movie screens in the headrests.  And here comes the kicker, the local bus runs around 7 pesos per trip.  The bus to Guadalajara 25 pesos for the hour ride.  Exchange rate? 15:1.  Incredible!

Which brings us to the other mind blowing aspect of our time here in Mexico - cheap, cheap, cheapity cheap, with absolutely no compromise on quality.  Mexican people are very proud of the food they offer, the services, the stone, steel, and woodwork - everything! (While writing this Josefina asks which sheets I prefer on the bed - who cares?? I prefer sheets. But she wants to make sure she does exactly what I prefer.)

Because it is so inexpensive here, we eat 2 out of 3 meals a day out.  It costs less than grocery shopping.  Like any newbies, we were initially concerned about hitting tourist traps with sub par food vs. local Mexican gems with authentic culinary delights.  Everything here is a delight! The street food rivals any restaurant.  Telling you the prices on things is going to be a recurring theme in this blog, because it never ceases to amaze us.  Lunch will run you 50 pesos for a chicken sandwich on fresh baked bread, with fresh onion, lettuce and tomato, a Corona, and fries at a Lonchera which is a small family owned lunch counter.  That's about $3.50 US.  It's double that for that same thing if you eat in a restaurant.  A whopping $7.  Dinners out with 2 rounds of drinks, appetizers, meal and tip, on average runs us about $35 US -at a high end restaurant. It's a foodie paradise!!

That gives you a little peek at our life here in Mexico.  Much more to come...

  Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness,

and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts.

Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired

by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.
- Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain